Deciphering Boot Measurements: Stock, HMTM, FMTM

Have you ever wondered what a "stock" size boot is? Why some boots are only Half Made to Measure or Full Made to Measure? Let's talk about it!

When it comes to custom ordering boots, there are three types of sizing - stock sizing, Half Made to Measure (HMTM) [also referenced as Semi-Custom], and Full Made to Measure (FMTM) [Full Custom]. 

Stock Sizes 

Each brand has a standardized size chart containing a number of "stock" sizes. This does NOT mean that the boot is "in stock!" This means that the boot will be made to a standard size without any deviations in the specifications. You can order a completely "custom" design in a "stock" size. Most brands do NOT charge extra if you fit into a "stock" size. There are, however, extra charges if you need to modify any aspect of that size... more to come...

Pros of Stock Sizes:

  • There is no extra charge for a boot that is a "stock" size. 

Cons of Stock Sizes

  • The boots are not made custom to YOUR leg. If the shape of your leg does not conform to the shape of a stock size, you may experience gapping, rippling, etc. 

Half Made to Measure (HMTM)

Also referred to as semi-custom, with half made to measure, we can modify one or two aspects of the size. The rest of the boot, however, is a standard stock size. These options might include a change in knee circumference, ankle circumference, height, or calf width (depending on the brand). One of our favorite things about Kingsley is that you can modify THREE  aspects of the boots using semi-custom sizing (height, knee circumference, AND ankle circumference) for an up-charge of only $75! With Kingsley, we are able to get about 85% of our customers into half made to measure, offering a custom fit without the custom price!

Half Made to Measure Pros

  • Allow you to adjust a stock size to your liking without committing to the cost of fully custom measurements 

Half Made to Measure Cons

  • Can only adjust one or two things depending on the brand
  • The customer is still subject to the SHAPE of the stock size calf, which may or may not conform to the shape of their leg! Your fitter should be able to anticipate any discrepancies between the stock size and your calf (e.g. the height at the widest point of the calf).

How to made a stock size or HMTM work for you:

Adding a gusset or elastic panel can add an extra level of stretch and flexibility. These can be added in the boot factory or as an aftermarket option if you change sizes slightly during the lifetime of your boots.

Made to Measure or Full Made to Measure 

This is a FULLY custom boot! Some brands vary with regards to how many different measurements they take. For example, Chester boots are full made to measure, but measurements are taken ONLY at the knee, widest point of the calf, and the ankle. Kingsley takes measurements at 12 different intervals on the customer's leg, ensuring a very close fit. What we love about DeNiro is that when doing a made to measure boot, they take measurements of the leg AND foot, allowing for a boot that is truly custom from the footbed to the bow. 

Made to Measure Pros

  • Is completely made to your leg’s (and in some cases your foot's) specifications
  • Your boots will fit like a glove
  • You don't have to compromise on getting a specific look or feel

Made to Measure Cons

  • There is an up-charge
  • Decreases the resale value of the boots
  • Boots that are FULLY custom to your legs are measured down the the millimeter - be prepared for some break-in! 

It's important to know that, no matter the situation, there is no "one size fits all" option. Some riders might happily ride in a boot that is slightly shorter in height to fit into a stock size and save some money. Another person might decide they don't want to compromise on a specific look or feel and go for fully custom measurements. When making these decisions we consider things like budget, comfort, and any leg anatomy.

At TDR, our mission is to educate you so that YOU can make the best decision for YOU. That being said, we cannot make the decision for you! Our reps will explain absolutely everything to the best of their knowledge and ability, but at the end of the day, you have to choose what's right for you! 

Up next on #TheDistinguishedBlog: What is a "Boot Rep" and Why Should I Purchase Boots Through One? 

Back to blog

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.